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Appliance Lifetime Cost

The efficient model costs more to buy and less to run. Everyone knows the trade, and almost nobody does the sum, so the decision gets made on a feeling about which is the responsible choice.

The sum is not difficult and it does not always come out the way you expect. Sometimes the efficient appliance is genuinely cheaper over its life. Sometimes it is not, and the difference turns on your power price.

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The three things to remember

Lifetime cost is purchase plus running, not purchase. The kWh figure beats the star rating for comparing across sizes. And there is a break-even power price you can calculate.

Two fridges

Fridge A costs $1,200.00 and uses 400 kWh a year. Fridge B costs $1,800.00 and uses 250 kWh a year. Assume electricity at $0.30 per kWh and a twelve year life.

Fridge A running cost: 400 x $0.30 = $120.00 a year
Over 12 years: $120.00 x 12 = $1,440.00
Fridge A lifetime cost: $1,200.00 + $1,440.00 = $2,640.00
Fridge B running cost: 250 x $0.30 = $75.00 a year
Over 12 years: $75.00 x 12 = $900.00
Fridge B lifetime cost: $1,800.00 + $900.00 = $2,700.00
The efficient fridge costs $60.00 more over its life.

That is the result people do not expect, and it is worth sitting with before anyone concludes the lesson is to buy the cheap one. Change one assumption and it reverses.

The same two fridges at a higher power price

Now run it at $0.40 per kWh, which is well within the range New Zealand households pay depending on retailer, plan and region.

Fridge A: 400 x $0.40 = $160.00 a year, so $160.00 x 12 = $1,920.00
Fridge A lifetime: $1,200.00 + $1,920.00 = $3,120.00
Fridge B: 250 x $0.40 = $100.00 a year, so $100.00 x 12 = $1,200.00
Fridge B lifetime: $1,800.00 + $1,200.00 = $3,000.00
At $0.40 the efficient fridge wins by $120.00.

So find the break-even

There is a power price at which the two are exactly equal, and it is worth computing because it turns an argument into a number.

Extra purchase cost of B: $1,800.00 - $1,200.00 = $600.00
Annual energy saved: 400 - 250 = 150 kWh
Over 12 years: 150 x 12 = 1,800 kWh saved
Break-even price: $600.00 / 1,800 = $0.3333 per kWh
Above about 33 cents a unit the efficient fridge wins. Below it, the cheaper one does.
Now you only need one number from your bill

Find your per kWh rate on a recent power bill and compare it with the break-even. That is the whole decision, and it takes a minute. It also explains why blanket advice about buying efficient appliances is unreliable: the correct answer genuinely differs between two households looking at the same two products, because they pay different prices for electricity.

Reading the Energy Rating Label

The label carries two things: a star rating and an estimated annual energy consumption in kilowatt hours. Most people look at the stars. The kWh number is the more useful of the two, and for one specific reason.

What it shows What it is good for
Star rating Comparing models of similar size and type only
Annual kWh figure Comparing anything against anything, and doing the sum

Stars are awarded relative to other appliances of comparable size and class. A large six star fridge can use more electricity than a small four star one, because they are being rated against different peer groups. The kWh figure has no such problem, because a kilowatt hour is a kilowatt hour.

The estimate is a test figure, not your figure

The annual consumption on the label comes from a standardised test, and your actual use will differ with how full the appliance is, where it sits, how warm the room is and how you use it. That does not make the number useless. It makes it a fair basis for comparing two appliances against each other, which is exactly what you need it for, and a rough basis for predicting your own bill.

The three assumptions that move the answer

Your power price. The single biggest lever, and the one you can read off a bill.
The expected life. A shorter life favours the cheaper appliance, since running cost has less time to accumulate.
Repair cost and availability. An appliance that cannot be economically repaired has a shorter real life than its build quality suggests.
Change any one of these materially and the winner can change.

Repair or replace

A useful working rule is to compare the repair quote against the remaining value of the appliance rather than against the price of a new one. An appliance eight years into a twelve year life has about a third of its life left, so a repair costing more than roughly a third of a replacement is usually poor value.

Two things sit outside the arithmetic and are worth weighing anyway. A repair keeps a working machine out of the waste stream, which has a value the sum does not capture. And a new appliance restarts the reliability clock, which has a value to anyone who cannot afford a second failure soon.

What this guide does not cover

Every figure above is an illustration built from stated assumptions rather than a quoted price or tariff. Electricity prices vary substantially by retailer, plan and region, and time of use plans change the calculation again for appliances that can be shifted to off-peak periods. Substitute your own rate from a recent bill and your own expected life before deciding anything.

Related guides and tools

Test Your Knowledge

Ten questions on running costs, break-even and energy labels.

1. What is the lifetime cost of an appliance?
Purchase price plus any extended warranty
Purchase price plus running cost over its life
Running cost alone, since the purchase is sunk
Purchase price less its resale value later
2. At $0.30 per kWh, which fridge in the example costs less over 12 years?
The efficient one, by $60
The efficient one, by $120
The cheaper, less efficient one, by $60
They cost exactly the same amount
3. At $0.40 per kWh, what changes?
The efficient fridge wins by $120
The cheaper fridge wins by a larger margin
The two become exactly equal in cost
Nothing, as the ranking does not depend on price
4. What is the break-even power price in the example?
About 33 cents per kWh
About 20 cents per kWh
About 45 cents per kWh
About 60 cents per kWh
5. Why is blanket advice to buy efficient appliances unreliable?
Efficiency ratings are not independently tested
Efficient appliances always fail sooner
Running costs are too small to matter
The right answer depends on your power price
6. Which part of the Energy Rating Label is more useful for comparison?
The annual kWh figure
The star rating
The brand and model number
The appliance's physical dimensions
7. Why can a six star appliance use more power than a four star one?
Star ratings are set by the manufacturer
Star ratings measure noise as well as energy
Star ratings expire after five years
They are rated against different peer groups by size
8. What is the annual kWh figure on the label based on?
An average of real customer bills
The manufacturer's own internal estimate
A standardised test, not your actual use
The worst case under continuous operation
9. How does a shorter expected life change the decision?
It favours the efficient appliance
It makes no difference to the comparison
It doubles the break-even power price
It favours the cheaper appliance
10. What should a repair quote be compared against?
The original purchase price paid
The remaining value of the appliance
The cost of the most expensive replacement
The annual running cost of the appliance

Sources: arithmetic worked from stated assumptions, using an illustrative electricity price rather than a quoted tariff; and the Energy Rating Label, which displays both a star rating and an estimated annual energy consumption in kilowatt hours. Electricity prices vary by retailer, plan and region, so substitute your own rate from a recent bill before drawing conclusions.

Work it out: Appliance Running Cost Calculator