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Refixing vs Refinancing Your Mortgage

🔁 The Difference Between Refixing and Refinancing

Most New Zealand mortgages are split into fixed-rate chunks that expire every year or two, so every mortgage holder regularly faces the same moment: the rate is about to roll over, and you have to decide what to do next. Two words come up, refixing and refinancing, and they are often confused. They are not the same thing, and knowing the difference can be worth thousands of dollars over the life of your loan.

Key Point: Refixing means choosing a new interest rate when your fixed term ends, staying with your current bank. It is quick, free, and usually done online or with a phone call. Refinancing means moving your whole mortgage to a different lender, which takes more effort and some legal cost, but can win you a better rate, a cash contribution to switch, or features your current bank lacks. The simplest move is to refix, but it pays to check what refinancing could offer, and to negotiate either way.

Refixing in a Nutshell

  • Same lender: You stay where you are and pick a new fixed or floating rate.
  • No legal work: There is no new loan to set up, so no solicitor and usually no fees.
  • Fast: It can be done in minutes, often before your term even ends.

Refinancing in a Nutshell

  • New lender: You move the mortgage to a different bank.
  • An application: The new bank reassesses your income, expenses and the property.
  • Some cost and reward: There is legal work to discharge the old loan and register the new one, but the new bank often offers a cash contribution to win your business.
Both are normal: Refixing happens to almost every mortgage holder, often many times. Refinancing is less frequent but completely routine. Neither is a sign of trouble; both are simply ways to manage your loan as rates and your needs change.

📌 When to Refix

The Easy, Sensible Default

Refixing is the natural choice when your current bank is offering competitive rates, you are happy with their service, and you do not want the effort of switching. For most people, most of the time, a well-negotiated refix is perfectly good.

Always Negotiate Your Refix

Here is the part many people miss: the rate your bank first offers when you refix is often not its best. Banks frequently shave a margin off the advertised, or carded, rate if you ask, especially if you have a good record or mention you are considering other lenders. A short conversation can lower your rate for the whole term.

Your fixed term is ending and the bank offers the carded rate
You ask whether they can do better, or mention other banks' rates
They shave a margin off, lowering your rate
That small reduction applies to every repayment for the term
Over a large loan, it adds up to real money

Choosing Your New Term

Refixing also means choosing how long to fix for. A shorter term lets you react sooner if rates fall, while a longer term gives certainty. Many people split their loan across more than one term so not all of it rolls over at once, smoothing the risk of refixing everything at a high point.

Use our Mortgage Calculator to compare repayments at different rates and terms, and the Breaking a Fixed Mortgage guide if you are mid-term.

💰 When to Refinance

Reasons to Move Banks

  • A clearly better rate: If another lender is meaningfully cheaper and your bank will not match it, switching can save real money.
  • Cash contributions: New banks often pay a cash contribution, sometimes a few thousand dollars, to win your mortgage. This can more than cover the switching costs.
  • Better structure or features: You might want an offset account, revolving credit, or different flexibility your current bank does not offer well.
  • Poor service: Sometimes the reason is simply that you are unhappy with your bank.

The Costs and the Catches

Refinancing is not free. You will usually pay legal fees to discharge the old mortgage and register the new one. If you break a fixed term early to switch, a break fee may apply when wholesale rates have fallen. And the cash contribution comes with a clawback condition.

FactorWhat to know
Legal feesTo discharge and register the mortgage
Break feeMay apply if you leave a fixed term early
Cash contributionOffered by the new bank, often a few thousand dollars
ClawbackYou usually repay the cash contribution if you leave within a few years
Mind the clawback: The new bank's cash contribution typically has to be repaid if you refinance away again within about three years. So do not chase cash incentives by switching too often, or you can end up handing the money back.

Do the Maths

The right call is whichever leaves you better off after all costs. Add up the savings from a lower rate over the term, plus any cash contribution, then subtract legal fees and any break fee. If you are clearly ahead, refinancing makes sense; if it is marginal, refixing and negotiating may be simpler and just as good.

Estimate the interest saved from a lower rate over the term
Add the new bank's cash contribution
Subtract legal fees and any break fee
If the total is clearly positive, refinancing is worth it

✅ Common Mistakes and What to Do

Mistake 1: Taking the First Refix Rate

The trap: Clicking accept on the bank's first offer without asking for better.

Why it costs: The carded rate is often not the best the bank will do. A quick negotiation can lower it, saving money on every repayment for the term.

Mistake 2: Switching for Cash, Then Paying It Back

The trap: Chasing a cash contribution and refinancing again before the clawback period ends.

Why it costs: You have to repay the contribution if you leave too soon, wiping out the gain and the effort. Only switch when you plan to stay.

Mistake 3: Ignoring Break Fees

The trap: Refinancing mid-fixed-term without checking the break fee.

Why it costs: A break fee can be large when wholesale rates have dropped, easily swallowing the savings. Get the figure before you commit.

Mistake 4: Letting It Roll to Floating by Default

The trap: Doing nothing, so the loan drops onto the higher floating rate when the fixed term ends.

Why it costs: Floating rates are usually higher than fixed. Letting it default there, even briefly, costs more than actively refixing.

A Simple Action Plan

1. Note when your fixed term ends, and act before it does
2. Get your bank's refix offer, then ask them to do better
3. Check what other lenders offer, including cash contributions
4. Compare the total benefit after fees, break costs and clawbacks
5. Refix if it is competitive, refinance if clearly ahead
6. Consider splitting your loan across terms to spread risk

Where to Go Next

Use the Mortgage Calculator to compare scenarios, the Mortgage Repayment Calculator for repayments, and the Breaking a Fixed Mortgage guide for break fees.

Final word: Refixing keeps you with your bank on a new rate, quick and free, while refinancing moves you to a new lender for a better deal, cash contribution or features, at some cost and effort. Always negotiate your refix, do the full maths before refinancing, watch break fees and clawbacks, and never let your loan drift onto floating by default. A little attention each time a term rolls over keeps your mortgage working hard for you. This is general information, not personalised lending advice, so talk to a mortgage adviser for your own situation.

🎯 Test Your Knowledge

Quiz on Refixing vs Refinancing (20 Questions)

1. Refixing means:
Choosing a new rate while staying with your current bank
Moving your mortgage to a new bank
Selling your house
Paying off the loan entirely
2. Refinancing means:
Moving your whole mortgage to a different lender
Picking a new rate with the same bank
Increasing your deposit
Renting out your home
3. Refixing usually involves:
No legal work and no fees
A full new loan application
Hiring two solicitors
Selling the property
4. When you refix, the bank's first offered rate is:
Often not its best; you can negotiate
Always the lowest possible
Fixed by law
Higher than floating
5. New banks often offer a cash contribution to:
Win your mortgage when you refinance
Punish you for switching
Replace your deposit
Pay your rates bill
6. A clawback means you usually must:
Repay the cash contribution if you leave within a few years
Keep the cash no matter what
Pay double your mortgage
Sell your home
7. A break fee may apply when you:
Leave a fixed term early, often after wholesale rates have fallen
Refix at the end of your term
Make your normal repayment
Negotiate a lower rate
8. Refinancing typically includes:
Legal fees to discharge and register the mortgage
No costs at all
A guaranteed lower rate by law
Free legal work always
9. The simplest default when your term ends is usually to:
Refix, after negotiating the rate
Do nothing and go to floating
Sell the house
Stop paying
10. Letting your loan roll to floating by default usually:
Costs more, as floating rates are usually higher
Saves the most money
Has no effect
Lowers your rate
11. A good reason to refinance is:
A clearly better rate your bank will not match
Boredom
To pay more interest
To trigger a break fee
12. Splitting your loan across terms helps by:
Smoothing the risk of refixing everything at a high point
Doubling your repayments
Removing all interest
Cancelling the mortgage
13. To decide whether to refinance, you should:
Compare total savings and cash against fees, break costs and clawbacks
Only look at the cash contribution
Ignore all costs
Flip a coin
14. Most NZ mortgages are:
Split into fixed-rate chunks that expire every year or two
Fixed for the whole 30 years
Always floating
Interest-free
15. Mentioning other lenders' rates when refixing can:
Help your bank sharpen its offer
Get your loan cancelled
Increase your rate
Trigger a fine
16. A new bank's cash contribution can:
More than cover the switching costs in some cases
Never be worth anything
Only be paid after ten years
Replace your income
17. A shorter fixed term lets you:
React sooner if rates fall, with less certainty
Lock in for longer with more certainty
Avoid all interest
Skip repayments
18. Chasing cash contributions by switching too often can:
Mean you repay the cash via clawback, losing the gain
Always make you richer
Lower your rate forever
Remove break fees
19. You should act on your refix:
Before the fixed term ends, so it does not default to floating
A year after it ends
Never
Only if the bank calls you
20. A sound approach when your term rolls over is to:
Negotiate a refix, check other lenders, and refinance only if clearly ahead
Accept the first rate without question
Always refinance regardless of cost
Let it drift to floating

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